A vendor at the Dongmen Market offers an array of exotic seafood. It’s a lively market to stroll through, with the tang of the sea in the air.(Wing Tan)
Chinese holiday-makers may fly to Thailand, Hawaii or Australia’s Gold Coast to soak up some sun on the beaches, but you don’t have to go through passport control in pursuit of a tropical getaway.
Hainan, China’s southernmost province, offers sea, sun, sand and a relaxing respite from the winter cold of northern China.
Most travelers head for the resort city of Sanya on the south of the island, but it’s a mistake to bypass Haikou, the provincial capital 300 kilometers away on the northern shore.
In addition to clean air, sea views, well-preserved rainforests and enough sunshine to bake a lobster, the city also has historic sites and a wide array of city entertainment and conveniences lacking in Sanya.
So why has Haikou been so long overshadowed by Sanya?
Well, at first glance it doesn’t have that touristy façade. Its wide boulevards and towering office blocks are testament to the city’s role as Hainan’s economic and political hub.
But look a bit beyond that for some wonderful sightseeing. The city faces the Leizhou Peninsula, which has plenty of beaches for the most resolute of beachcombers. But after a swim and some tanning, it’s time for a walk through Haikou’s historic sites, old buildings and lively back alleys.
Thirsty? The coconut trees lining almost every street point to an excellent way to quench your thirst. The “city of coconuts” has special teams to maintain the trees and pick the fruit before it falls on pedestrian walkways. Local cab drivers will tell you that being conked on the head by a coconut means that either you are poised to come into a large fortune or you are headed for some bad luck.
You’ll feel it’s good fortune if you relieve the heat of an afternoon with some fresh coconut milk. For 4 yuan (60 US cents) street-side vendors will chop off the top of a coconut for you and give you a straw. Choose a coconut chilled in a refrigerator for the most refreshing drink.
With a coconut in hand, it’s time to take in the city sights.
Haikou, whose name translates as “mouth of the sea,” became a major port city in the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127). Remnants of its proud past abound.
Among the most interesting sites is Wugong Temple, constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) to honor five Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907) officials banished to Hainan; the Tomb of Hairui, the final resting place for an incorruptible Ming official; and Xiuying Battery, a 19th-century coastal fort.
One must-see place is Sotto Porticos Old Street in a preserved area of downtown Haikou. Wandering around the 2-square-kilometer area, one can see almost 600 old buildings, most of them built by rich Chinese businessmen who returned from Southeast Asia to invest in China during the early 1900s.
The buildings feature Western architectural elements and delicate carvings on window frames and handrails. In some older courtyards, original woodworks have withstood time.
