Great Wall outpost a towering achievement(2)

Entering the old town, visitors see the six arches, which were built in the Ming Dynasty and broken later. They were recently restored and capture the original flavor of the city.

The highlight among the Ming relics is Daxing Temple on a hill, reached through hutongs from the main street. It offers a perfect view of the old town. Each hutong retains its ancient name, such as Lane of Scholar Li, who lived there several hundred years ago.

Dozens of shops and restaurants on both sides of the main street offer local products and food at reasonable prices. Locals go about their daily life, making the area colorful and lively.

There's a half-day walking tour of the old town, connecting the six arch buildings, several hutongs, Daxing Temple and the city walls.

Opening hours and admission: open all day, admission free.

The Great Wall — Zhenbei Terrace

Though less well known than other Great Wall landmarks, Zhenbei Terrace is one of three best Great Wall stops, in addition to Jiayu Pass in Gansu Province and Shanhai Pass in Beijing. Four hundred years ago, it was the biggest military watch tower on the frontier, and an important trading hub in the Ming Dynasty.

After climbing to the top of the four-layer tower, visitors can appreciate the rugged frontier landscape including desert and trees. Those with excellent eyesight can spot six other ancient watch towers, all quite dilapidated.

The tiny but informative Great Wall Museum near the watch tower is worth visiting because it covers the history and development of the wall, where Han and Mongols used to trade horses. It displays relics, such as stones carved with the five elements.

Opening hours and admission: 7:30am-7pm, 30 yuan (US$4.9).

Red Stone Gorge

Red Stone or Hong Shi Gorge is famous for the red boulders and cliffs with carved calligraphy and ancient pictograms. The grottoes carved into the cliffs contains well preseverd intriguing art, some Buddhist, some Taoist and some a combination of both where Buddhism met Taoism in the region.

The sunlight on the red and orange stone creates magical colors, and sunset photos are worth waiting for.

Both Zhenbei Terrace and Red Stone Gorge are outside of downtown Yulin, but not far. Visitors can take buses Nos. 3 and 11 or take a 20-minute taxi ride from the Old Town.

Opening hours and admission: 7:30am-7pm, 30 yuan (US$4.9). Food

Yulin is famous for snacks and dishes such as yang za sui, or sheep offal soup with noodle; Yulin tofu, and zhu lian rou, or pork from pig's face.

The best restaurants are on Great Wall Road and Xinjian Road S. Night food markets are located on Xinminglou Street and in the Yuanyang Lake area.

Accommodation

Lovely Final Hotel

Near the old town and at a bus stop. Clean and comfortable. 138 yuan(US$22.6)/night.

Address: Xinjian Rd S.

Tel: 0912-382-4666

Rising Dragon International Hotel

One of the best hotels in Yulin, near the city wall. Pleasing decor. 298 yuan/night or 338 yuan with computer.

Address: Great Wall Rd

Tel: 0912-353-0000

HT Inn (Hanting)

Near the old town, easy online booking. 209 yuan/night

Address: Xinjian Rd S.

Transportation:

By air: Direct flights to Yulin from Shanghai, Beijing and Xi'an. Airport shuttle takes visitors downtown; one hour's ride costs 20 yuan.

By train and bus: Regular trains and buses to all nearby counties and destinations such as Taiyuan in Shanxi Province and Yinchuan in Ningxia.

Climate:

Located near a desert in northwestern China, Yulin has hot summers that are surprisingly humid.

It gets cool or cold at night. Winter is very cold.