The Cut

Andreas Block's arrival at The Fairmont Beijing's steakhouse is a prime example of the subtle influence a head chef can have. Block, formerly of the Ellingen Brauhaus on Financial Street, has drawn on his German heritage, which is particularly expressed in a selection of new starters that reveal a refined touch in his preparation.

This is especially evident in the mustard seed soup (90RMB), a subtle, warming broth that comes served with a hunk of flaky smoked salmon. Many of the other starters remain, with The Cut clearly having matured over the years. The Pacific steelhead trout chops (220RMB) are perfectly light with a slightly crisp skin. For those who don't eat meat, the thick sauce holding together the vegetable risotto (175RMB) is packed with a rich, creamy flavour throughout.

Of the steak slabs available to you, the flank steak is by far the best value: at 260RMB, the boneless selection is tender enough to eat without any sauces at all, though a colourful panoply of mustards is offered. The Cut takes a comprehensive approach to the art of cow, with everything up to high-end wagyu beef available in deliciously tender slices.

Desserts are a bit of a bust, with the apple tart's (78RMB) thin pancake layer topped with a small scoop of vanilla truffle ice cream and a tornado of dried apple peel, though several creative options involving green tea or other Chinese flavours are up for grabs. But on the whole, Block should be proud: his steakhouse is highly recommended.

Details

Open

Tue-Sat 6pm- 10:30pm

39.908642,116.451344

Telephone 8511 7777

English address Second floor, Fairmont Beijing, 8 Yongandongli, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang district

Chinese address 朝阳区建国门外大街永安东里8号华彬费尔蒙酒店内

Web www.fairmont.com/beijing/guestservices/restaurants/thecut.

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