Lei Garden's crispy roasted pork
The Michelin Guide has finally come to China, stirring up a pot of controversy in its wake.
First there was an uproar about the fact that stars awarded to 26 Shanghai restaurants included nine that specialized in Cantonese, not Shanghai, cuisine. Then there was the mini-scandal of one of the restaurants having to close because it didn't have all the proper licenses.
Shanghai people certainly took umbrage over what they see as a slight to hometown cuisine. Some of their favorite upmarket eateries were ignored in favor of restaurants catering to tourists. In addition to coveted stars, another 25 restaurants were honored as Bib Gourmand restaurants. Only 10 of them specialize in Shanghai cuisine.
Michael Ellis, Michelin Guide international director, tried to turn down the heat under the new rankings, noting that Shanghai-style restaurants came in a high second after Cantonese restaurants.
The Paris-based Michelin Guide is taking Asia by a storm this year, inaugurating new guides in Shanghai, Singapore and Seoul.
Claire Dorland-Clauzel, executive vice president of Michelin brands and vice-president of Michelin International, said the foray into Asia continues the company's long history with regional cuisine.
He noted there are Michelin-starred Chinese and Asian restaurants in Europe, North America and South America.
That may explain the seeming preference for Cantonese restaurants in Shanghai. Most overseas Chinese restaurants are Cantonese style.
Ellis said at least one of the Michelin inspectors for the Shanghai guide was a Shanghai local, and Dorland-Clauzel said more than half of the inspectors were Chinese.
Another concern was the lack of Japanese restaurants in the new Michelin Guide. Japanese cuisine is probably the second most popular in Shanghai, after Chinese. Only one Japanese-style barbeque restaurant, Kanpai Classic, received a Michelin star.
Ellis explained that the Michelin restaurant inspectors did visit some Japanese restaurants and wrote objective comments. He said more Japanese restaurants would probably make the list in the future.
Whether locals are happy or not, the advent of the Michelin Guide in the city is likely to set new standards for restaurants and raise the profile of the debate over what constitutes fine dining.
The Michelin Guide's influence is well-known. Starred restaurants are guaranteed high foot traffic and wide media exposure. There is also a downside.
In Hong Kong, smaller restaurants face tough challenges as Michelin recognition bumps up rents. Kai Kai Dessert, a Hong Kong shop that specializes in old-fashioned Cantonese tang shui and desserts, was forced to find new location after the restaurant was featured in the street food section of the Michelin Guide in 2015 and the landlord subsequently hiked the monthly rent 120 percent.
In Shanghai, there have also been unforeseen repercussions. Just a day after receiving a Michelin star, Tai'an Table was forced to shut down for operating without the proper licenses and operating within a residential building. Residents in the surrounding area have long filed complaints against the restaurant, citing noise and safety concerns. When the Michelin star put Tai'an Table on the citywide radar, the Changning District Market Supervision and Management Bureau stepped in to seal off its operations.
