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Bar & Clubs

Bar Constellation

1
2015-04-02 16:41   Editor: Li Yan

The fifth whisky and cocktail bar from bar mogul Kin-san in Shanghai Centre

In a city where bars and restaurants come and go at gaotie speed, Constellation is a minor institution, the name a still reliable indicator of quality. It's 15 years since the original opened on Xinle Lu. In the time since, founder Jin Zhonglei (more widely known as Kin-san)has steadily grown his empire to include similar bars on Yongjia Lu, Huangpi Bei Lu and Zizhong Lu, not forgetting Wine Plus on Wulumuqi Nan Lu.

Constellation's fifth location is a small space tucked away on the second floor of Nanjing Xi Lu's Shanghai Centre, above Pizza Express. Like all Constellations (except the cocktail-focused first), whisky is priority number one. Suitably, a quaint Scottish theme runs through the décor: black Scottish terrier stickers and paintings of clipper ships surmount a pastel-hued tartan wallpaper. Absent is the signature long bar. Instead, seating is mostly made up of small tables that, together with the decoration, lend the space the cosy, personable feeling of an old-fashioned saloon bar. Constellation 2 may have a slightly larger range of whiskies than the 1,500 on offer here, but the more intimate space within the Shanghai Centre has greater appeal.

The whisky menu may be book-thick, but the cocktail menu is only slightly less so. Both can be overwhelming to the uninitiated, but staff are reasonably helpful at providing suggestions.

After sampling a straightforward classic – Glenfarclas 15 years (110RMB) – we flick through the menu seeking something more unusual minus the wallet-draining price of a rare dram. The award-winning, single pot still Redbreast 12 years (80RMB) is wonderfully smooth, and the perfect counter to those who dismiss the capability of Irish whiskey. Disappointingly, despite the menu listing two pages of bourbon, and us desiring a sip of McCarthy's Oregon Single Malt Whisky (100RMB), only Jack Daniels was available during our visits.

Cocktails are of the standard expected of a group that helped establish the vibrant drinks scene that currently exists in Shanghai. Our Manhattan (90RMB), never an easy cocktail to do well, is expertly balanced, the traditional use of rye whisky maintaining the right equality between sweet and dry. Sticking with the Empire State, we plum for a New York sour (80RMB), a concoction that takes a whisky sour and adds a red wine float which bleeds into the drink. Upon first sip Bar Constellation's is reminiscent of a not too sweet sangria, but later its citrus elements come to the fore providing a refreshing, tart taste and a tingle in the mouth.

These days it's easy to take Constellation for granted. Shanghai's speakeasy craze with its hidden doorways has added a dash of fun to cocktail drinking, while the likes of Senator Saloon and Union Trading Company are more experimental in their offerings. But while this latest Constellation doesn't wow with innovation, it does impress with high-level consistency.

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