This year, a new round of regulations has begun taking effect.
In May, the Shenzhen government released a notice online saying 83 alleyways in Dafen have illegally constructed rooftops and blocked thoroughfares. There were also 148 framemakers and glass shops deemed "severe fire hazards."
When Longgang district's Buji neighborhood committee sent workers to clear up fire safety hazards in Dafen this summer, Ma was there to watch. She saw a group of people with ladders and hammers flood into the village, crossing the alleyways and assessing the walls, until they found the perfect one to begin tearing down. The wall was situated in a back alley, small, crowded, and remote, a perfect example of what the committee deemed a safety hazard.
The wall also happened to belong to a friend of Ma's, who'd been out of town at that time for a job. When Ma texted him to tell what was happening, he rushed back after the team was gone to move his work elsewhere.
Two weeks later, when the demolition gang arrived for a second round, the painters were ready. An argument broke out in the narrow alleyways, jamming traffic. After a long standoff, the workers backed down. In July, Yang and a group of about 40 painters organized a meeting with local officials at an art gallery in Dafen. They raised their concerns, hoping there might be some sort of middle ground. So far, there has been no answer from the officials.
Wu Ruiqiu, a painter-turned-art zone planner who was president of the Dafen Fine Art Industry Association between 2006 and 2012, believes that if there's a genuine fire concern, the government shouldn't ease off just because some painters might not be able to make rent. But he does believe some arrangements could also be made to care for the painters' needs.
"Why do painters work on walls? It's because there's not enough room in the village. If there's space, who'd want to paint in an alley?" he asks. "Tearing down walls doesn't solve the root of the problem. These workers have contributed to Dafen's industry year after year. They deserve some space."
If the issue doesn't get solved, and his wall gets torn down, Yang will have to find a cheap studio in an even shabbier part of town. He prefers staying in Dafen, because the village itself has become a byword for fine art. New business comes through every day. If he left, he'd have to solely rely on old clients to make money.
"If it were just me, I would've just gone back home to find a job or clients, but now I also have my apprentice," he argues. "I have to be responsible for her future."
According to a development plan released by the district government in 2016, Dafen will be turned into an industrial park that's part internationalized oil painting production center, part trading platform, exhibition center, training center, and tourist attraction. There will be government offices, museums, galleries, theaters, art schools, and even hotels.
Wu said another big part of the transition is the shift from imitation artworks to original creation. If the issue of space isn't solved, he predicts, the village will lose talent. Some painters hope that the government's plans for a high-end art zone can include them; others are quietly planning their exit. Many have shelved their dreams of one day hitting the big time.
As this reporter was leaving, an argument broke out two streets over. A client had unrolled a canvas the size of a bed sheet on the ground, depicting a blooming plum tree against a dark red background. He pointed to the painting and shouted to someone nearby. Soon enough, a crowd of painters ducked out one by one from the nearby alleyways and gathered around.
The client shouted at the painter, demanding that he change a few details of the painting. "I did not ask for this," he repeatedly said.
The painter took a look at the canvas, shook his head, and went back into the shadows to work on a landscape. "I shouldn't have taken this order in the first place," he admits. "It's so cheap, I don't even give a damn."
"The Writing on the Walls" is a story from our issue, "Cloud Country". To read the entire issue, become a subscriber and receive the full magazine. Alternatively, you can purchase the digital version from the iTunes Store.
Article by Phoebe Zhang
　　
