One thousand and seventy-one meters above sea level in the downtown area, Guiyang, the capital city of Guizhou Province, is probably one of the most geographically diverse cities in China. On the plateau, mountains, hills, basins, and terraces dot the urban environment. Here, skyscrapers stand alongside hills while rivers connect wetlands around the city. The mild climate makes it ideal for tourists around the year.
As a second-tier city, you probably wouldn't get the same level of convenience or comfort when it comes to daily life, but if you are willing to overlook these issues, Guiyang can be a lot of fun. You can start the morning with the city park, Qianlingshan Park (黔灵山公园). Many cities have boring city parks, but Qianlingshan isn't one.
The key feature of the park, Qianling Hill, is home to over 400 macaques. Not afraid of humans at all, they are quite willing to come up and grab your water bottles and snacks. While it's fun to observe and even interact with these furry creatures, be aware that according to park management, over 1,000 visitors were hurt by the macaques in the past year, and this has been going on for over a decade, so wise up and don't feed them.
Though Guizhou is known for its ethnic diversity in general, a Han creation is arguably its most well-known brand. First built in 1598, Jiaxiu Tower (甲秀楼) was commissioned by Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644) Provincial Governor Jiang Dongzhi to boost the local feng shui. He named the tower "jiaxiu", meaning "excel in imperial exam", obviously hoping locals would do well on the crucial test. And it in turn became the favorite hangout of literary figures and scholars.
There used to be two iron poles from Qing Dynasty (1616 – 1911) standing in front of the tower. One was cast by Governor General Eletai of Yunnan and Guizhou, using confiscated weapons from the Miao people whose rebellion he quashed. The other, by Governor General Lebao, also used weapons from the rebels, this time the Bulang people. Both poles can be found today in the provisional museum of Guizhou, telling a local history of struggle and conflict.
Today, souvenir stalls, peddlers, tea houses, and bookstores all beg the attention of tourists, while in the Cuiwei Garden (翠微园) behind the tower, an exhibition of ethnic minority crafts and costumes has been going on all year round.
If you want a safer taste of nature than semi-wild monkeys, 18 kilometers south of the downtown area of Guiyang is the Huaxi District. Here you can find Huaxi Park (花溪公园) and Huaxi National City Wetland Park (花溪国家城市湿地公园). Full of green spaces, it's a strand area along the Huaxi, or Flower Creek where you can stroll in peace for the whole day.
There's nothing better to end your Flower Creek trip better than a bowl of the delicious Flower Greek Beef Rice Noodles (花溪牛肉粉) that made Huaxi famous around the city. Though every restaurant, big or small, does it, only few there can satisfy an experienced food critic, i.e. your local taxi driver. And according to mine, Huaxi Wang's (花溪王记) is the place to go. Sixteen RMB will get you a big bowl with extra beef, and it's just the hearty food you need after a long walk.
After nightfall, the downtown light show can simply not be missed. Guiyang's new CBD is located near the Huaguoyuan Wetland Park (花果园湿地公园), around it rises forest of modern buildings. On the east end of the park is the Huaguoyuan Mall where you can find all the familiar urban sights such as Starbucks.
Article by Jue Liu
Images by Jue Liu
