Itching for hairy crab? Come and get'em

"When the autumn wind starts, the legs of crabs itch." This is a very famous Chinese saying. Now is the season to harvest nature's culinary treasure, as the fertile, protected lakes around Shanghai bear forth the ultimate in savory Chinese cuisine — the hairy crab.

Yangcheng Lake in neighboring Jiangsu Province for generations has been the destination for crab connoisseurs from near and far who will travel to experience this very seasonal crab that matures only two to three months every year.

The quality of the Yangcheng Lake is good and makes the hairy crab meat clean and slightly sweet. The crab season officially starts in the ninth lunar month for female crab and the 10th for male crab. Each crab weighs between 180 and 250 grams.

There are three important characteristics when it comes to identifying the famous Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs. First and foremost, only the crabs from the Yangtze River Delta have a dark bluish-green shell. Second is the plump hairy legs, indicating the crabs are healthy. The last and perhaps most important indicator is a white and clean crab bottom, which shows that the crabs have grown up in a clean environment.

"Golden hair, green back and white belly distinguish Yangcheng Lake hairy crabs from others," says Gao Xiaosheng, Chinese executive chef at Pudong Shangri-La, East Shanghai.

Shanghai people love to eat hairy crabs because of the tasty roe and the tender meat. The purest way to cook the hairy crab is to steam it, which preserves its original flavor. The crab must be upside down to get the most flavor and juices trapped in the upper shell.

"The traditional cooking way is, of course, steaming. And another classic dish is stir-fried crabs with rice cake," says chef Gao.

Other new culinary styles include steamed with beer, fried and baked. Stir frying with egg yolk is a new approach, as well. Another is to separate the shells, add butter and cheese, and then bake the crab.

Shanghai people know how to make their seasonal hairy crab dishes enjoyable — by drinking a cup of warm Shaoxing rice wine as an accompaniment. Another choice is to drink ginger tea to somewhat balance the crab's overly "cold" (yin) energy.

Today, Shanghai Daily discovers some delicate hairy crab dishes hidden in 5-star hotels in the city. These dishes have the most authentic taste and sometimes are cooked in creative ways.

Pudong Shangri-La, East Shanghai

Chinese Executive Chef Gao Xiaosheng has created from his childhood memory a very old-style dish — stewed hairy crabs with young soy beans. The hairy crabs are first stir-fried with minced ginger and scallions and then simmered with braised young soy beans. Finally, put in some flour when the dish is almost ready.

"The tasty soup from the hairy crabs and soy beans makes the pastes soaked in it just awesome," says chef Gao.

The hotel's Chinese restaurant, Gui Hua Lou, offers a hairy crab feast. The two signature dishes are bird's nest with crab meat and stewed egg white with crab roe and caviar.

"Traditionally, we drink ginger tea or rice wine to balance the yin energy of hairy crab. And here (at Gui Hua Lou), besides ginger tea, I specially prepare a bowl of plain congee accompanied with four homemade side dishes at the end of the meal," Gao adds.

Address: Level 1, River Wing, 33 Fucheng Rd, Pudong

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