A kiss of rome (2)

A lightly garlicked scampi with angel-hair pasta is among the delicacies in the Italian eatery. [Photo provided to China Daily]

There is also a nice pasta selection, including a lightly garlicked scampi with angel-hair pasta, a studly pair of aromatic king prawns, coriander cream and red caviar. Meatier mains include prime steak cuts, a Mediterranean-style chicken served in a clay pot and braised veal ossobuco with a saffron risotto.

Pizza is a surprise star on the menu, with impeccably thin crust that allows the premium toppings such as Parma ham to shine. We went for the house special, with mozzarella, pancetta, mushrooms, onions, olives, Gorgonzola cheese and garlic on a light swooshing of tomato sauce.

The short list of desserts includes the obligatory but far from ordinary tiramisu, which Sanna renders into a creamy cloud of bliss.

The final treat worth noting is the well-chosen wine list, which can range to pricy vintages that you'd expect in a Kempinski-class hotel. What's noteworthy, however, is that there are 100 wines on offer by the glass, an extraordinary offering in a city where diners who don't want a whole bottle are stuck with the house plonk or a handful of choices.

At Via Roma, we were offered about a dozen choices from a trolley cart, and if a cheerfully offered taste doesn't produce a winner, there are plenty more available. No prices on display, so ask to avoid sticker shock when the bill is presented. But we found plenty to choose from in the hundred-and-something-yuan range - as well as divine drops we'll save for a special occasion, like winning the lottery.)

All in all, Via Roma is an approachable Italian gem in a fine dining setting that's been well worth the wait.

Contact the writer at michaelpeters@chinadaily.com.cn

If you go

Via Roma

Inside the Kempinski Beijing

50 Liangmaqiao Lu (Road), Chaoyang district, Beijing.

010-6465-3388 Ext 4215.

Average cost per person: 600 yuan ($97) (plus alcohol and 15 percent service charge)

Recommended: Pan-Fried Sea Bass and King Crab with Zucchini Flowers, Sausage and Porcini Risotto, Braised Veal Ossobuco, Via Roma Pizza, Tiramisu.