Dumpling Delight (2)

Taiwan dan dan noodles is another popular dish at the restaurant.Photo provided to China Daily

The menu was a sheet for us to tick off the items that we desired. Although they didn't have the chicken soup with wontons that I loved in Fuxing, most of the staples were present. We decided to round up a bit more than the usual suspects after a quick glance at adjacent tables showed that portions were smaller than in Taipei.

I feel that the hallmark of an eatery such as Din Tai Fung is whether it gets its basics right. Are its ingredients fresh, despite its mass-market appeal? Are dishes representative of what I would get in Taiwan, or have they been adjusted to suit local tastes? Most importantly: Why does it consistently rank on the top lists of many foodies?

We started with the xiao long bao. Presented in a bamboo steamer on a white doily, the six steamed pork dumplings were not too big, not too small and not too thick.

They released their rich broth with a nice burst of flavor in my mouth, although I have to admit that I burned my tongue due to impatience. We slurped them up greedily with the red vinegar and ginger shards provided.

Sichuan four-season beans is one of my favorite dishes, and it didn't disappoint at Din Tai Fung, despite the somewhat snack-sized portion. The beans were crunchy and the minced pork savory with just a hint of chili.

The highlight for me was the deep-fried pork chop. It was perfectly seasoned with black pepper, to give it bite, and fried to retain its juiciness, although it was chewy rather than crispy.

I enjoyed the textural difference, as most battered chops often cover up meat that could be sub-standard. Not here.

We finished with peanut-speckled and chili-oil-infused dan dan noodles, then added vegetable wonton in chili oil for an extra dose of veg. Yummy on both accounts. The deliciously nutty broth of the noodles balanced the hearty meat-based dishes, while the crunchy greens in the wontons rounded out the texture.

I concluded that despite a few tweaks to suit Hong Kong, Din Tai Fung here is faithful to its soul and spirit. It makes for a satisfyingly economical meal that justifies the wait.

Contact the writer at features@chinadaily.com.cn

IF YOU GO

Din Tai Fung, the Causeway Bay branch

G/F, 68 Yee Woo Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong. 852-3160-8998.

Average cost per person: HK$150 ($19).

Recommended: Steamed Pork Dumplings, Taiwan Dan Dan Noodles, Sichuan Four-Season Beans.