Cold dishes can combat summer heat

As summer officially arrives — the summer solstice arrived on June 21 — now is the season for Shanghainese people to make their favorite food like cold noodles and wontons, mung bean soup and cold dishes marinated in rice wine or zao huo.

Almost all local mothers can make cold noodle at home. It's one of the best dishes for summer — cooling, easy to prepare and preserve, and most important, it's delicious.

"It's an important and impressive childhood memory of my generation," says Liu Hongbing, a 32-year-old Shanghai resident. "I still remember that when my mom prepared the dish when I was little, she put the noodles from a big flat bamboo basket and waved a bamboo fan herself by the side; years later she used an electronic fan to cool it down."

The first and most important step is as what Liu remembers — the noodles are cooked and then fanned to cool down, creating tenacity while not losing the moisture. Then green pepper, bean sprouts and cane shoots are mixed in to form a crisp chew, according to Liu.

In authentic Shanghainese style, there are four typical garnishing foods for cold noodles — "three slices" (pork meat, pepper and water bamboo), spicy meat, eel and "fried gluten puff mixed with jew's-ear."

They are commonly prepared at home and also are easily found at small roadside food stalls and noodle shops. Shanghai has several famous old labels for cold noodles, such as Meixin on Shaanxi Road N. As a seasonal food, cold noodles are available only in summer.

"An average price of 15 yuan (US$2.40) for a big bowl of cold noodles is very reasonable," Liu says.

The toppings are cooked and ready to add when you order the noodles, usually present in big square plates.

The essential element is the sesame sauce, while every housewife might have her own secret recipe. The common seasonings are vinegar and teal oil before you start to eat.

"I always ask the ayi (the middle-aged waitress in local food stores are usually called ayi by young customers) to add more sesame sauce and vinegar — smell good and taste perfect. I love the mixed flavors in my mouth with those sauces and crispy chewing," says Liu.

"Although the ingredients are simple, they are fused together in perfect proportions to become something truly delicious," says Jacqueline Qiu, executive chef of Hai Pai, a Shanghainese restaurant at Andaz Xintiandi, Shanghai.