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Tasty dim sum and Beijing duck companions

2014-07-03 17:13 Shanghai Daily Web Editor: Si Huan
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Gastronomically speaking, I've always been adventurous. Raised on French classics and New England staples, in my formative years I had a yen for more exotic fare.

Living in China and traveling extensively has permitted me to assuage my culinary desires and experience some of the world's most exciting dishes.

I adore mala (numb and spicy) hotpot, stinky tofu, intestines and other innards, duck tongues, goose webs and a host of additional treats that are well outside the norms of Western fare.

However, when I entertain visiting family members and Western guests I have to tone down my exploratory tendencies.

In other words, find foods that even the most timid of Western palates will enjoy and of course pair them with the appropriate wines.

Two sure fire solutions are dim sum for lunch or brunch and Beijing duck for dinner.

Beijing duck

Who doesn't love Beijing duck? One would really have to hate food not to love this classic. Over the years, I've really never come across anyone, whether Chinese or a foreigner, who doesn't enjoy this dish.

The first written accounts of this dish date back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271-1368) when it was mentioned as one of the imperial dishes. Over the ensuing centuries the dish was prepared in different styles until the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), when the dish evolved into its modern form.

Delicious by itself, Beijing duck reaches new heights of culinary excellence when accompanied by the right wine. So what's the perfect wine to pair with Beijing duck? In my opinion, there are two equally satisfying, yet very different solutions.

One ideal partner is Champagne or Franciacorta rose sparkler. Unlike wines for a daytime dim sum meal, when enjoying a Beijing duck dinner we definitely want intense and serious wines.

When picking your Champagne or Franciacorta, I suggest a brut or extra brut rose that's entirely or mostly made with Pinot Noir.

The Pinot Noir variety has a wonderful affinity for duck.

The slightly greasy nature of the duck and the sweet flavor of the plum sauce matches beautifully with sophisticated red fruit flavors of the rose sparkler, while the fine bubbles and acidity of the wine cleanse the mouth and make each successive bite even more delicious. Though pricey, both Champagne and Franciacorta rose wines deliver the apex sparkling wine experience with Beijing duck.

Several styles of red wines also match nicely with Beijing duck with a personal favorite being a fine Spanish Tempranillo. The Tempranillo grape makes aromatic wines with generous dark fruit flavors, hints of tobacco and soft tannins that elegantly highlight the richness of the roasted duck meat and skin while not clashing with the other components of the dish.

The gentle tannins of the Tempranillo wine facilitate digestion of the meat, skin and pancake leaving the mouth with a sensuous combination of Eastern and Western sensations.

Two of Spain's most renowned Trempanillo reds, the Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva from Rioja and the Bodegas y Vinedos Montecastro from Ribera del Duero are the perfect wines to raise your Beijing duck experience to new gastronomic heights.

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