Pistolera promises the big guns of Mexican cuisine (2)

Also interesting: The homestyle beef-and-vegetable stew known as cocido, and the tortilla soup, in which shredded chicken and fried tortilla strips are served in thick chicken broth along with tomatoes and chipotle chili. Pistolera has a way with chilies - signature chili dishes start from a simple chili bowl to a chili Sonora hot dog to a chili-bathed burrito to casual chili nachos.

Appetizers include quesadillias in many forms, from old-fashioned fried ones to some hipsters. The shrimp variety with its chipotle chili cream has a mild hot and spicy taste, but the added splash of tequila may not appeal to everyone. My personal favorite has been the beef chili quesadilla - the simplest and the tastiest.

The "diablo" pork burrito is my personal favorite as it comes with spicy marinated "al pastor" grilled pork. It's named for the devil himself, but it's not really super-spicy. A side of Mexican rice and refried beans can be added, but the burrito itself is quite large and filling.

In fact, tasting too many items here can be a challenge, because each portion is quite enormous and due to the cheese content in a few, the food is on the heavier side. So go with a very large appetite.

We did, ordering the famous fish tacos and enchiladas, too. Both the shrimp and grilled tilapia tacos tasted heavenly, enhanced by the restaurant's secret batter recipe. There's a Baja style that is topped with chipotle and mustard coleslaw, while the grilled tilapia version comes with pico de gallo and guacamole.

Among the popular enchilada options, the hot favorite is a trio covered in cheese and green tomatillo sauce. Filling options include chicken, beef, shrimp and cheese.

Pistolera's margarita on the rocks is quite sensational, and the dessert list harbors other indulgences. We went for three quite shamelessly: "Chocoflan", a combination of chocolate cake and creme caramel (flan); churros, fried dough sticks coated with sugar and cinnamon and served with three dipping sauces; and the bunuelos - thin deep-fried tortillas, soaked in sugar syrup and served with a choice of ice cream.

IF YOU GO

Pistolera's

855 Biyun Lu (Road) (near Lan'an Road), Pudong New Area, Shanghai.

021-5030-4228.

Approximate cost per person: 150 yuan ($24).

Recommended Dishes: Beef Chili Quesadilla, Diablo Pork Burrito, Enchiladas with Green Tomatillo Sauce and Bunuelo with Vanilla Ice Cream.