New song at Aria (2)

Taylor says the kitchen, which has strict levels of hierarchy, is sometimes similar to an army.

"Every level is different, and has a challenge," he reveals.

He says he likes being chef de cuisine, because "it gives me the most freedom to be creative".

The chef now takes care of 15 people in the kitchen at Aria, including himself.

"You have to make sure they are happy, but also work hard," he says. "If somebody doesn't like what they do, one can always see it on the plate."

Taylor's father is Australian, and his mother is Chinese. When he was young, he had congee and red-bean buns for breakfast. He was not afraid to try chicken feet and pork blood.

"As a child I ate Chinese food. My palate is open to different things," he says.

But the chef wants to make sure he offers "honest Western food" at Aria, because he thinks that's what brings customers to the restaurant.

On the other hand, half of Aria's customers are Chinese people, who prefer their consomme not so salty, and who are very health-conscious.

Moreover, he needs to put out a much bigger menu in China than in Australia, with a broad price range from the widely affordable to the luxurious.

Aria offers beef, for example, priced from 300 to 1,150 yuan ($48-185).

"The main thing is that, for every dish, customers get what they paid for. No matter what they order, we cook it in the same way. The difference only comes from the meat."

Taylor has prepared two tasting menus－one for the typical customer, another for the "epicurious".

"It is a menu for those people who are knowledgeable about good food. They will still find a lot of things they've not tried before," he says.

He recommends Shiro Kin tenderloin, the best beef from Australia, or tajima wagyu tenderloin, another high-quality option. He also hopes customers can try foie gras imported from France as a starter, and strawberry cheesecake for dessert.

If one eats these menu items, "I believe you could never leave unsatisfied," he says.

IF YOU GO

Aria

2/F, China World Hotel Beijing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang district, Beijing.

010-6505-3318

Average cost per head: 500 yuan

Recommended: Shiro Kin Tenderloin or Tajima Wagyu Tenderloin, Foie Gras, Strawberry Cheesecake.