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Prime steak houses are a cut above

2014-03-14 12:40 Shanghai Daily Web Editor: Si Huan
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For meat lovers, there's nothing like a good steak house with the best cuts of beef. And if you're tired of Chinese food, there's nothing like a steak.

Fine-dining steak houses are usually decorated with darkwood, sometimes chandeliers; many are patterned on steak houses in the United States.

Some serve seafood. They have extensive wine lists, featuring New World wines.

Many steak houses in Shanghai have excellent city views. Some source beef from Australia.

A few restaurateurs (see examples below) follow the concept "from farm to table," getting involved in raising cattle to control quality from the very beginning.

By hand picking cattle and raising them separately, a restaurant can control the type of feed, ensuring it's organic, and that living conditions are healthy and humane, says Franco Bordini, executive chef at Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai.

Beef used by local steakhouses are either grain-fed or grass-fed, depending on chef's preference. Grain, high in protein, fattens up cattle quickly, which makes its meat more marbled, hence tender and flavorful. Grass-fed beef is comparatively leaner and firmer but is said to be healthier.

According to a report by University of California's Division of Agricultural and Natural Resource, grass-based diets elevate precursors for vitamins A and E and cancer-fighting antioxidant.

Quite a few restaurants in Shanghai have their own aging facilities and showcase the area to diners who can check the quality, especially the color and marbling. Most steaks in China are wet-aged, which is faster and more efficient but often less desirable in terms of quality.

Dry-aging makes the meat lose some water and concentrates the flavor; it can take weeks or months.

Wet-aging — placing beef in sealed packages and storing — uses natural enzymes to break down connective tissue and make the meat tender and juicier.

The tradition of using sauces, such as steak sauce, mustard and garlic, is being replaced by simply using salt and pepper to enhance the natural flavor.

To fully appreciate the quality of steak, no sauce is added, claims Ruth's Chris Steak house, Shanghai.

Steak houses typically offer quality seafood.

Fine dining venues typically offer excellent desserts. Sometimes the best cheesecake is not found in a cafe, but a steak house.

For those who can't afford prime steak, try the beef burger at lunch. The ground beef usually comes from the same producer as the steak.

Here are 10 recommended steak house destinations, some have been popular destinations for years, others are new and offer new dining concepts.

The 1515 WEST, Chophouse & Bar

The decor combines classical American grille features with 1930s Shanghai for a special ambience. Visitors are greeted by the aroma of freshly baked bread from two vintage ovens.

The venue serves large portions of Queensland, Australia, grain-fed beef, dry-aged for 45 days for concentrated flavor.

The 1515 WEST Bone in Rib Eye is recommended. Diners can watch a butcher cut and weigh their meat before sending it to the grill.

The menu includes fresh oysters and American-style desserts, including New York cheesecake and apple cobbler.

The wine and cocktail menu is extensive.

Best seat: The chef's table accommodates six to eight people next to the open kitchen.

Address: 4/F, Jing An Shangri-La, West Shanghai, 1218 Yan'an Rd M.

Tel: 2203-8889

CHAR Grill and Bar

Executive chef Vincent Song says CHAR is the only steak house in Shanghai serving the award-winning Blackmore's wagyu beef fillet from Australia. Fed for 600 days using traditional Japanese farming methods in Australian countryside. This full-blood Japanese wagyu has a marble score of 9+.

Steak is served with half grilled lobster, seared foie gras, shaved black truffles and wild mushrooms. Black cod with homemade sauce is a signature dish.

The dessert menu features banana cheesecake. The restaurant focuses on details, from handcrafted knives to six distinctive salts to flavor the meat.

Best seat: Tables facing the Bund

Address: 29-30/F, 585 Zhongshan Rd E2

Tel: 3302-9995

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