Xiamen's own sweet time(2)

The campus of Xiamen University has been considered one of the most scenic in the country. Photos by Sun Ye/China Daily

Peanut soup is one of the popular traditional Xiamen desserts.

To the south, there are cool sandy beaches (with a skyful of kites) that go on to encircle the island. And the nearby inner-circle pavement prove qualified for international marathons.

Running a marathon may not be for everyone, so the Island Ring Road is lined up with bikes for rent.

To Siming's east, there are a botanical garden, reservoirs, lakes, hills and forests that border or sprawl into Xiamen University.

The century-old university is the uncontested "most scenic university of China".

The historical South Putuo Temple stands at its west gate. Libraries and activity centers are connected by paths of flame trees and groves of milflores, Xiamen's city flower. A football field overlooks the sand and the sea.

Walk along a trail scaling the hills enfolding the campus, and one will reach the Wanshi Botanical Garden to while away a whole day. The Lover's Valley near the campus is densely wooded with many trails winding into the hills that one can easily spend a day hiking.

Sunsets are best on the Sunlight Rock if one can reach Gulangyu Island on time.

Gulangyu, or the "garden upon sea", is one ferry stop away from downtown Xiamen and is the best jewel of the city.

Strictly speaking, it's a residential area except that it had housed various Western consulates since it was a leased territory in the early 20th century and therefore nicknamed the "museum of architecture". It has the best combinations of sea, greenbelts, rocks, statues, gardens and mansions.

On Sunlight Rock, one gets a panoramic view of these treasures.

Even better, whiffs of the wind could well be carrying music notes around.

Gulangyu is "the island of music" as a disproportionately large number of pianists, violinists and music lovers in general used to reside there. So many, that its two most popular museums on the 2-square-kilometer isle are the Organ Museum and the Piano Museum. Each houses historical instruments.

The island is ideal for spacing out while walking leisurely until one comes to its hub, the Longtou Road. That area is now lined up with boutique stores, restaurants and snack shops that paddle delicacies from both Fujian province and Taiwan.

The city has the best foodstuff from Fujian province and Taiwan. Snacks are available nearly at every corner one turns to and are generally highly-recommended.

There is the ubiquitous satay noodles that combines the best of the signature sauce with add-ons of duck bloods, offals and seafood. Hailijian, or fried oyster mashed with eggs, flour and condiments, is a must-try.

Stewed duck with rice wine, ginger and sugar is sweet, nourishing and especially good for women, according to traditional Chinese medicine theories. Peanut soup, with the nut softened and sugary from a long time of boiling over, is an ideal dessert. Mashu, the sticky rice pastry filled with crunchy peanuts and sesame powder, is another of the local's favorite sweetmeat.

If you go:

While warmandmoist yeararound, the best time to visit the subtropical city is in spring and fall, when there is less rain and heat.

Xiamen Gaoqi Airport serves flights fromacross the country.

Highspeed trains connect the city with Shanghai,Wuhan, Shenzhen and Fuzhou, the capital of Fujian province.